Spring, summer, autumn, winter, carnival – in Cologne, the year has not four, but five seasons. Karneval officially begins at 11.11am on 11 November, but the most important festivities take place throughout the city in February or March – precisely, in the week leading up to Ash Wednesday and the beginning of Lent. It kicks off on Fat Thursday, or Weiberfastnacht, when women cut off men’s ties, before compensating them with a Bützchen (a kiss). Celebrations reach a climax on Shrove Monday with Germany’s largest carnival parade, featuring costumed dance groups, brass bands and a host of colourfully – and humorously – decorated floats, all accompanied by a million spectators.